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I've read about the Mayan civilizations but I'm always left confused about times and periods and with the history of who was up and who was down at any one point. But I was inspired to visit as many Mayan sites as I could by John L. Stephens books (Vol One and Vol Two) Incidents of Travel in Yucatan written about 1850 that described his journey through the Yucatan in search of the Mayan pyramids hidden by vegetation or by hispanic construction.
Since then we have been to Tulum and Coba in Quintana Roo. To Chichen Itza, Izamal, Uxmal, Labna and many other small ruins in the Yucatan. To Palenque in Tabasco. To Yaxchilan and Bonampak in Chiapas, To Lamanai in Belize, and now to where I have long wanted to go, Tikal in Guatemala.
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We bought tickets (about $20 USA) after 4 PM that were good for entry into the ruins from 4 to 6 on that afternoon as well as all of the next day. After a quick glance at the map we decided to take what looked like the shortest route to the Grand Plaza. What we didn't know was that this route was the most difficult. While most of the trail was under the canopy of the rain forest, it was also under the "cover" of heat and humidity. When the jungle opened up to the Grand Plaza it was worth the effort. Now all you see is the stone but to sit under a tree and think about how it must have looked 2,000 years ago when the surfaces were stucco and painted in many colors of reds, blues, yellows is just almost beyond belief. To think that these structures that rise as high as 65 meters were constructed without the use of wheels or pulleys.....just human manpower is mindboggling.
Having learned our lesson about the heat in the jungle, the next morning we were at the entrance to the site at 6 AM where we hired our guide. The route he took us on to the Grand Plaza was a much easier walk and in the cool morning air, the birds were singing, the small ground animals were still moving through the jungle and the spider monkeys were above our heads. And also important is that the bus loads of tourists had not arrived. Hiring an authorized guide is worth every penny. We learned so much about the flora and fauna, about the ancient civilization as well as about the recent history of the area.
Tikal is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I'm so fortunate to have seen it, but there is more to this story....tomorrow.
3 comments:
In the 1960s, the television critic for The Oregonian, Francis Murphy, would take his summer vacation in the Yucatan uncovering newly-discovered Mayan sites. His columns helped to ignite my interest in archaeology. I am looking forward to spending long periods of time at these sites. Thank you for keeping that flame alive.
I'm SO glad you got to go early in the morning -- it makes all the difference in the world! It is a special, special place! Now every other site will pale in comparison!
oh, boy. Tomorrow is our "Tikal Day" and due to circumstances beyond my control, we will not be there until at least 10 or 11 am. I am re reading all of your Tikal entries in anticipation of the trip tomorrow and am feeling like it is all happening the wrong way. Aaaargh.
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