Saturday, December 31, 2005

What happened in 2005

It has started on the television.....Reviews of what happened in 2005. Me too. I'm looking at what I accomplished in 2005.

For the last 6 or 7 years, I've been making a list of what I'd like to do in the coming year. I don't call it "My New Years Resolutions." I call it my "2005 To Do List." I type it out, save it to disk, print it and put it somewhere....on my bulletin board, tape it to the wall near the computer, clip it in my journal or even leave it in the stack of stuff always on my desk. What amazes me is I seldom look at it during the year but when I find it as the next year approaches I am usually amazed at the number of things that I can cross off of the list. I think there is something about the act of putting goals into writing. Even though you don't look at it daily, it is somehow chiseled somewhere in your brain. Maybe that helps guide your actions from day to day. I wonder what would happen it I really focused on that list over the year. Looked at it everyday.

2005 wasn't the best of years for my list. I can check off about 1/3 of the 21 items. At this point you might be wondering what I did get done from the 2005 list.......

  • I've grown my photo data base on Pbase and Flickr
  • I started this blog and kept it up almost daily
  • Bought a new computer, printer and monitor
  • Entertained friends more often
  • We built the studio/office in San Miguel
  • Spent most of the year in Mexico
  • Improved my skills in Photoshop

Still there were a lot of things that didn't get done. Was the list for 2005 too ambitious? Did I include things I thought I "should do" as opposed to things I really wanted to do? I think there is a little of all of that but there are a few un-done things from the 2005 list that will go on the 2006 To Do List:

  • Work on a book of the 16th Century Mexican Churches
  • Learn more Spanish
  • Work on a personal Mexican Cook Book
  • Photograph some more in the Old Sixth Ward
  • Start photographing kitchens anywhere and everywhere

Actually some work has started on the Mexican Church Book. For several years I traveled in Mexico scouting out 16th Century churches. I exposed a lot of film and this work has been in several exhibitions. I've started scanning negatives and I've done some research about how to get a personal book printed. But the work is in the beginning stages.

I've got to improve my Spanish. Many of the photography projects I'd like to do require better communication on my part. So some language classes and a tutor are definitely on the list for 2006.

As the readers to this blog know, I like to cook. I've been finding ways to adjust my recipes to San Miguel as well as developing a few recipes of my own. I think it would be fun to photograph the dishes and put the recipes together in a little book to give to friends.

We live in a neighborhood in Houston called the Old Sixth Ward. I've been photographing there for several years. I'd like to get "signed releases" from the owners of houses I've already photographed from the street and also to get permission to go into backyards and houses to expand the project even more. I don't know where this project will go but it seems to be important to me to continue to work on it.

Although I haven't really started this photography project, I'd like to photograph kitchens....real kitchens where food is prepared for the family. And I'd especially like to do this in Mexico. Learning more Spanish will be important for this to come to fruition.

Now this isn't all of my 2006 To Do List....it is just what is left over from 2005. Pretty ambitious isn't it? But if I don't have a list, I might not get any of it done. Check the blog on New Year's Eve 2006 and see what I've accomplished.

Friday, December 30, 2005

It's Official....

I'm 69 years old today. I feel like it is one of those "milestone" birthdays. I've never been on the usual milestones of birthdays, 40, 50, 60, etc. There have been other birthdays that seemed to be some rite of passage for me.

Thirty-six was one of significance. Suddenly, I saw 40 looming. Children were growing up and I started evaluating what I was going to do with my life. I went back to college to finish my degree while I worked hard on my career path. So by the time I got to 40 I had sorted through some questions and I was okay with where I was.

Then again in my late 40's, some career changes and some health issues in the family caused another re-assessment of life so the 50th birthday seemed to be just a time for a fun party. No surprise, no milestone.

I had lost my baby sister to breast cancer before my 60th birthday. That was the time for thinking about life.

Now, today I'm 69 and in my personal journal today I was trying to find a word that described how I felt about this birthday. Anxious? Fearful? Realistic? Fragile? Vulnerable? Surprised to be 69? All of those apply a bit but the word I decided on was much more positive. Jubilant. I'm jubilant about reaching this milestone and I'm in good health. While we aren't wealthy (by American standards) we have enough income to live well especially here in Mexico. I have my husband of 49 years. We have three wonderful sons and their families. We have dear friends and we continue to make new friends. I have my photography....so much a part of my life and always a challenge. My life is full of so many good things and I have lots of plans for things I want to do before I get "old."

Hey, while I'm a little surprised that this birthday just crept up on me, I'm glad to be 69. It is much better than the alternative.

Thursday, December 29, 2005

No Presents, Please!

I had a email from son Doug yesterday. It was about our 49th anniversary and talking about the next one, the 50th. He wrote that he had gone on the net looking for gifts for the 50th wedding anniversay........

Did you know, after the 15th anniversary there are only traditional gifts every 5 years. Your next traditional gift is next year. And man are you in for a shock. Just search for 50th anniversary gift ideas. 50th must be the tacky anniversary. There are some truly bad gift ideas for that one. You had better tell everyone NOT to bring gifts--or at least NOT to search for ideas on the net. WOW!

He is right. Take a look.....a 144 gift ideas.

Please, please.....no gifts!

The Morning After


First of all, many thanks to all who have written to congratulate us on making 49 years of marriage. We feel pretty good about it too and invited friends to come have some postres and bubbly with us. This photo of our dining room table is the "Night before the morning after." We bought the cake at the fish taco place because we have heard nothing but raves about their carrot cake. It was delicious (even for breakfast!) But the rest I made.

I've written before about the challenges I have with baking here. I don't always know if it is the differences in ingredients or the altitude but it is a challenge. The crust on one of the pecan pies decided to let the custard through and so the crust was up against the pecans. It is suppose to be pecans, custard, crust. Then I made two key lime pies. The pies turned out fine but we couldn't find whipping cream for the topping in this town yesterday. I've written before that you can find almost anything you want for cooking in this town, just not necessarily when you want it. Espinos said they would have it late in the afternoon so Ned went back at 4. They had gotten their shipment from the dairy but no whipping cream. They did have the cans of whipping cream so that is what I put on the pie. It wasn't long before it had lost its swirls and just lay on the pie. Not an attractive look! Still the pie was good. I also made pecan sandies and dark chocolate shortbread, then cheated a bit more with Mrs. Fields cookies.

We had a house full of friends and a good time. Much too good a time to wash dishes at midnight. So this is the morning after.

Next year, 50 years of marriage. It'll be the biggie....and I'll be hiring someone else to wash the dishes!

Wednesday, December 28, 2005

Forty-nine

Forty-nine and still going. Yes, we've been married for 49 years today. Amazing!
The old cliche is right, "Time flies when you are having fun!"

Monday, December 26, 2005

Boxing Day

Although the origins of Boxing Day, December 26, are a bit confused, it all seems to come back to the employer or landowner giving of "boxes" of goods or coins to "employees" on the day after Christmas. Now the day after Christmas has taken on a new meaning. In the USA it is a day celebrated by merchants and buyers alike. Buyers flock to the stores to see how much merchandise has been discounted and they buy, buy, buy. The malls and parking lots are overwhelmed as people arrive early to be the first in line when the doors open. The merchants seem to compete to see who can open their stores the earliest. Forget 10:00 AM, how about 8:00 or even 6:00 AM.

Today in SMA, I didn't see discounted merchandise but talk about the crowds.....they were out in force. The traffic in the Centro was terrible....bumper to bumper everywhere. The narrow sidewalks were shoulder to shoulder. As Ned and I walked in the Artisan's market, I heard snippets of conversation....."After I get the mask, then I'm through," "I need to go back to that shop on Canal," and "I gotta have that." I'm not sure what some of the Mexicans were saying but in some of the vendor's stalls, we saw Mexicans looking for some special item......like a fruit bowl.

There must be something about the day after Christmas that makes people keep opening their pocketbook. In the USA and in Mexico.

A Different Christmas Day

For those of you in the snow, doesn't this look like a different kind of Christmas Day? Well, we don't often get any snow in Houston but this was still a different Christmas Day for us here in San Miguel. We were away from family for the first time ever. And maybe for the first time ever we didn't buy each other any presents. We have everything we need and almost everything we want. And I have to admit that the Canon 5D camera that I recently bought will take the place of any presents for quite some time in the future.

But we certainly were not lonely on Christmas Day. We went for brunch at Barry and Tracy's hacienda just a few blocks from us. I've written about their hacienda before. The house with deep porticos surrounds the pool. It is a house with a relaxed attitude.

There was a bunch of us including two families from Sweden who were visiting Mats and Ava our Swedish friends who live in San Miguel. Still there was room to sit at a table or lounge by the pool or under the portico on couches. And food........yes, there was plenty of food, more than enough food. All of it was delicious.

About 3:00 PM we went home for a little siesta then headed down the hill to Don and Patricia's house for a Christmas Dinner. I didn't think I could eat a thing but Patricia is a fabulous cook and her filete de res was cooked perfectly. Roasted potatoes and green beans. We couldn't resist. By night time, the temperature had dropped, the fireplace was lit and the room was cozy. Just right for lingering over the table with a glass of wine and talking.

It was a different Christmas Day but it was a memorable Christmas Day.

Sunday, December 25, 2005

Merry Christmas

And to all my friends of other religious persuasions, I also wish you and your families a wonderful Holiday. I've always tried to be careful not to send my Jewish friends a Merry Christmas greeting and instead use something like "I wish you and your family a wonderful holiday season and a prosperous and happy new year." But this year the media and some groups have made the whole holiday greeting and how you celebrate it like something that should be hidden away from public view. A nativity scene in the front yard.....OH, NO! It might offend your Muslim or Jewish friends. Why are we in the USA becoming more and more polarized. While we say this is being done to be more sensitive and inclusive, it is my opinion that it is divisive and exclusive. Oh, my.....to much serious stuff for such a beautiful day.

And it is another beautiful day in San Miguel. Again, sun and blue skies. Our street is rather quiet except for the Senora in each house coming out about 8:00 A.M. to sweep the walk and street in front of their house. Then water is poured and it scrubbed down again. Some houses don't do this everyday but today is a holiday and so the street must be clean.

I've been standing at the kitchen sink from which I can see down our street. We are one of the streets that people walk up from the bus station and I've seen lots of people who are obviously from the campos walking up the street to join some of their city families today. The women are wrapped in shawls and they are carrying babies and big bags filled with what I'm assuming are special foods to be enjoyed.

Christmas Eve was lovely. We were invited to a party at Donne and Hugos at 5:00 PM. Their house is perched on the hill overlooking the city so we had a gorgeous view from the terrace. Donne had the house decorated for Christmas with garlands, trees, candles and lights. One of the designer magazines should have been there to take pictures. The table in the dining room was loaded with delicious food, the coffee table had some great snacks and in the downstairs casita were desserts of every kind imaginable. The food was beautiful and delicious. While we were there we got to enjoy one of San Miguel's most beautiful sunsets ever. It was thrilling to watch the sky darken and the lights all over the city twinkled. Besides all of that we got to visit with some old friends and make some new ones.

We left there and went to Joseph and Gary's for Christmas Eve Dinner. Their house was glowing with candle light. Joseph had been saving a special bottle of champagne which we had while the prime rib cooked. Then we gathered at their table for prime rib, twice baked potatoes and a carrot souffle as well as a couple of special bottles of wine that Gary had purchased when we went to Queretaro. There are always great conversations with Joseph and Gary. They have so many talents and interests. We lingered for a long time at the table enjoying the delicious dinner and the awesome cheesecake that Joseph made. About midnight we called a taxi and made our way home.

I missed my family but I felt very surrounded by special friendships and love.

Saturday, December 24, 2005

Christmas Eve

It is a beautiful morning here in central Mexico. The sun is shining, blue sky and for the first morning in a week or so, we see less haze or fog out toward the mountains to the north. Although it is chilly this morning, it is going to warm up fast. A hot air balloon went over about 30 minutes ago. I'm sure they were getting an amazing view of the town.

At this point, I'm wishing I had decorated the house for Christmas. The extent of my decorating was a Nacimiento. Oh, I bought some shiny paper ball/streamer things that I thought I would put on the light fixture over the dining room table but somehow it just didn't seem to be the thing to do. I didn't want to do a Christmas tree. Until we went over to our friends the Lewis' before we went out for dinner this week, I wasn't inspired at all to decorate. But Patricia had garlands and candles on her mantel and lots of candles around the house. That felt very nice and in the spirit of Christmas. If we are here next year, I'll do more.

I've got some cooking to do today. I've already sent some cookies over the Cervantes family and I want to make some banana nut bread for the old couple who also live across the street. We are going to a cocktail party and then to a dinner party tonight and I want to make a baked goody to take to our hosts. I also need to prep for the things I'll be taking to a brunch tomorrow. I'll be in the kitchen as usual on a Christmas Eve but it won't be the same as many years past where I was preparing food for 15+ on Christmas Day and also a Christmas Eve dinner for all who were around.

This is a very different Christmas for us. The first time we haven't been with family. That part is sad. On the other hand, we are getting to see another culture's way of celebrating the holiday and we are with many friends. But it is kind of like I'm looking at Christmas from the outside instead of being in the center.

Well it is time to get busy on that banana nut bread. To all my readers, I hope your cooking goes well and that family and friends arrive safely.

Friday, December 23, 2005

Another Posada

Tonight our neighbors, the Cervantes, invited us to a Posada on the street behind us. I think many parts of their family live on San Raphel Norte and when we came to the door of the house they had two chairs sitting in front of the little scene of Mary on a donkey with Joseph and an Angel. They insisted we sit there. The entry to the house was a long hallway with doors to rooms on each side. We think that different parts of the extended family live in those rooms. The hallway was lined with benches and chairs and most of them were filled with women and children. Ned was the only man in the hall.
We met several of Sra. Cervantes sisters, cousins and nieces. Then her Mother came in. She was a frail looking woman, bent over a bit and wearing thick glasses. She started to sit down beside me on a milk crate. I tried to get her to take my chair but she insisted that I sit in the chair. As soon as she was settled, she started the litany. We aren't Catholic and I'm not sure what to call the chant but she would speak, then everyone would join in. At certain points everyone sang something of a Christmas Carol while one of the ladies shook the tambourine. Sra. Cervantes mother may have looked old and frail but she was sharp and kept everyone on track.

We sat there quietly listening to the chant and picking out phrases we understood. For the most part the little girls stayed close to their mothers but the little boys were.....well, little boys. Up and down, in and out the door but nevertheless, they were well behaved.

After the lengthy service, we were all handed candles and sparklers and two of the young boys pushed forward to get the honor of carrying the little scene of Mary and Joseph that was on a pallet with poles attached for carrying it. We went out into the street and candles were lit and we walked about a block up the street and then turned and walked back and into the house. Once again I tried to give the old lady a chair but everyone insisted that we come back and sit in the chairs while the old lady sat on the milk crate. I think the only way she would have sat in that chair was if I picked her up and put her in it.

We were served a wonderful hot cider, then brunelos (I think that is what they are called) which are kind of a thin fried crust with honey and maybe a bit of cinnamon on them, then Atole and tamales. I have no idea how you are suppose to balance two cups and two plates. The Mexicans are much more accomplished at this than Ned and I were.

When we took our leave, thanking everyone in the room, they all seemed pleased that we had come. As we walked home, Ned and I talked about how special it was that we were invited.

Challenged

I just made my famous (this definition only applies within our family) Pecan Sandies. Of all things, this should be simple to make. Flour, butter, pecans, powdered sugar. They are okay but not quite the same.


My cooking reputation is challenged by baking here in Mexico. I haven't figured out how to adjust my baking recipes for 6700 feet above sea level. And I haven't figured out all the differences in ingredients. And my oven isn't as well made and dependable as I would like for it to be. The oven thermometer I brought from the States has died. My hand mixer doesn't do as good a job as the KitchenAide back in Houston. Well you can see I have a whole list of excuses. Nevertheless, I'm planning a dessert party.

Over time I have figured out a few pies that I can make here but I just realized that my oven only has one rack so I won't be able to put in more than 2 at a time. With some of the pies I can use a graham cracker crust but with a pecan pie, I need a crust. I can't even make a decent pie crust in Houston. I buy them frozen at Kroger's. I had heard that one of the bakeries in town would put a pie crust in your pie plate but when I sent Ned there today, they turned him away because they are too busy to do it. There is a little bakery down the street in our Colonia and Ned has talked the owner into making us some pie crusts.

I have a book on order about baking at high altitudes but it will not be here until after the first of the year. That isn't going to help next week. Oh, well, I'll make what I can make and we'll fill in with some things from some of the wonderful bakeries here in San Miguel.

While I'm still working on which dessert recipes will make it from the oven to the table, I also need to figure out if I have enough wine glasses, plates and forks for this party.

Knowing that baking isn't my strong suit in my Mexican kitchen, why have I invited people over next week for postres? I guess I just like to be challenged.

Thursday, December 22, 2005

Posada in Colonia San Antonio


On Sunday night we followed a Posada from one of the Churches in the Centro to our neighborhood church. Mary, Joseph and and Angel were riding on a flatbed truck through the city followed by about 75 people carrying candles and singing. It was about 9:00 PM and I was downloading the images I had made of this posada when we heard singing in the street. I grabbed the camera and went out the door.

Down the street beside our house came Mary riding on a lop-earred old donkey, and angel with feathered wings and a Joseph with a goat-tee painted on. This neighborhood posada was followed by a very good group of musicians and singers and of course families holding candles.

Wednesday, December 21, 2005

Still Around

If I have any regular readers you may have been wondering what has happened to me. I'm still here but busy, busy, busy. I've been shooting and processing images for someone else as well as myself. One thing that has been reinforced for me is that getting an image ready to be printed is much more time consuming than getting it ready for the internet. Maybe it shouldn't be that way....maybe I'm just being lazy with my internet images. Nevertheless, I have been working at the computer but still haven't processed any of the images I shot of some posadas. I've barely looked at them. Maybe later today.

Some things I have discovered in the last few days as I have worked with images:

While 1600 ISO shots can look okay on the screen, they will not make prints I'm happy with at larger than 4x6 if they have large dark shadow areas.

I can't handhold a camera and get a reasonably sharp image at slower shutter speeds than 1/25 of a second.

I need to work on the technique of combining two shots for highlight and shadow detail.

I need an assistant to help set up shots and check details when I shoot the interiors of houses.

I prefer not to use 17mm apertures on the interior shots in houses unless it is absolutely necessary.

I love the "transform>distort" feature of Photoshop....better than the perspective control feature.

I'm getting better at using a flash on the camera set at aperture control. But I'm still wondering if I should consider using multiple flashes.

I like shooting at night and I NEED the Canon 24-105 L Image Stablization lens.

More later along with some images from the night.

Sunday, December 18, 2005

Close to Home

Lots of photographers like to photograph in "other" locations. I do too but over the last few years I've been trying to see images "close to home." A couple of these "close to home" shoots have turned into serious on going projects. I started photographing along Buffalo Bayou just a few blocks from my Houston home and gradually the body of work grew and became an exhibition. About three years ago I started photographing in my neighborhood, the Old Sixth Ward, in Houston and that work is beginning to have a coherence.

Here in Colonia San Antonio in San Miguel de Allende, I've started trying to "see" what is happening here close to my Mexican home. I photographed in the neighborhood at Easter on Viernes de Dolores and on Good Friday.

Now it is Christmas and I'm looking through the view finder to see what I can see "Close to Home."

Juanita's Pizza....just around the corner from the house.

Christmas Pinata in the Mechanic's outdoor shop.

Altar in the house across the street from the Mechanic

Christmas tree outside a house on the street behind us.

Thursday, December 15, 2005

Home for the Holidays

Home for the Holidays......but we have been debating WHICH home for the holidays. Texas? San Miguel?

The Christmas Holidays have always been important to me. The family I grew up in didn't do much celebration for the holidays. We lived away from both my father and mother's families and so it was always just the four of us....Dad, Mom, Margaret and me. We'd open presents on Christmas Eve and on Christmas Day we'd have a dinner. Nothing more elaborate than a normal Sunday dinner. I always wanted more....not more presents but more festivities.

When I met Ned and started joining in his family celebrations, I found my holiday celebration. Decorations all around the house, big tree with lots of presents under it, lots of activities leading up to Christmas, music, people stopping by on Christmas Eve, opening presents Christmas morning, tables loaded with food, family coming in for the day on Christmas.

Over the years the location may have changed and change occurred because there were changes in the family but it remained a festive time with lots of coming and going, preparation, people and special foods. I loved it all. A special family time that gave our boys roots. And even though at times all the preparations almost were overwhelming for me, it was what I wanted to do.

This year is different. The sons have families and businesses and other obligations. Although Doug and his family have invited us to join them, we are in Mexico and getting back across the border Christmas week will mean hours of waiting to cross the bridge. Right after Christmas I would need to be back in San Miguel because I must print the images for my show which is coming up in March. Going to Austin would be a long trip for a short stay.

We have been wondering what Christmas is like here in San Miguel. So after weeks of deliberating, we have decided to stay here in San Miguel for Christmas.

It is just hard to imagine what Christmas will be like without our sons and their families, without Ned's sister, Betty and her family, without putting up the big tree and decorating the house with greenery, without the crowded shopping malls and traffic jams, without loading up two shopping carts with groceries for holiday feasts.

Some of you may be thinking....."You'll miss the malls and traffic? the days of cooking?" Yes, I will and I'll miss being with family. But San Miguel is home too. We may never do this again but who says that "senior citizens" aren't adventurous and open to change.

Tuesday, December 13, 2005

Looking for the Virgen (Virgin)

We decided to go looking for the Virgen de Guadalupe on her Feast Day starting in the morning at the San Juan de Dios Mercado. Although the San Juan Mercado is closer than the Ramirez Mercado, we seldom go there. What a surprise when we arrived. The Mercado was surrounded by Vendors of all things Christmas in Mexico....stall after stall after stall. The vendors that surprised me most were the ones who had their whole space filled with "clothes" for the baby Jesus.....many styles, all sizes and prices. I knew that on February 2, Candelaria, that the baby Jesuses that everyone brought from their homes to the church to be blessed, were in new clothes but I always thought that the garments were made by each family. No! There is a whole cottage industry of making baby Jesus clothes.
There was a small altar in the mercado for the Virgin but the larger one was just being set up. So on with our quest to find Virgins. The next stop was the San Juan de Dios church. The picture of the Virgin had been placed on the Altar and preparations were being made for Mass. We found Virgins at this church. Many people came bringing their figures or pictures of her to be taken into the Mass for blessings. While I waited for photo opportunities in front of the church, Ned patiently sat on a bench and watched. After Mass started we headed up the hill towards the Centro and the other churches. At Insurgentes and Quebrada, we found a shrine to the Virgin and a sign that said that the Virgin's procession would be at 5:00 PM. Mmmmm....Atencion, the newspaper, had said the procession would be at 5:30. Ned asked one of the ladies taking care of the shrine when the procession would start. She said that it would start at 4:30 "sharp." As always, ask the same question three times and get three different answers. We went on to the other churches talking about what time we needed to be back for the procession. Each of the other churches were crowded for Mass so on around the corner to the Ramirez Mercado. The altar for the Virgin that I had photographed earlier in the week was now full of flowers. After wandering around in the market to see if there might be any small altars to the Virgin we stopped for comida.

After refreshments, on to the Parroquia. Usually the Virgin and Juan Diego are on the wall to the right of the main altar but today was the Virgin's day and she was on the main altar. In her regular home were huge bouquets of flowers and several 3 foot wide crowns of flowers.

Back to the house for a little siesta....and so I could download the compact flash card from the camera. We were still trying to decide what time we should arrive for the procession so we decided to leave the house at 5:00 PM. After all, these things never start on time! When we reached Insurgentes and Quebrada the Virgen was gone and so was the procession. We rushed on to the Guadalupe Church. A band was set up to play and there was a boxing ring in the street with people sitting in chairs waiting for the event to begin. Two policeman were on the corner. Ned asked one of them about the Procession. He said it would be later. Then Ned asked a woman selling snacks on the street. She said the Procession had already passed the church on its way to Mexiquito. So we found a taxi to take us because Mexiquito is quite a bit further out of town.

When we got out of the taxi, we could see the end of the procession heading up the hill and we joined them. There were many, many Mexican families with their children dressed as tiny Juan Diegos or Guadalupitos. The procession wound through the church and then it was time for food, drinks, bands and fireworks. After we wandered around and watched the festivities for a while we headed down the hill and walked back to town until we found a taxi to take us back to the centro. Once there we sat at a street side table in the restaurant at the San Francisco Hotel and enjoyed the 2 for 1 cocktail hour and botanas while we watch the world go by and talked about all the Virgens we had seen on her feast day.

Monday, December 12, 2005

Goddess of the Americas

Some of you may not be familiar with or understand the importance of the "Virgen de Guadalupe" in the Mexican culture. My friend Patrice Wynn, a clothing designer, photographer and writer, tells the Virgin's story better than I can.

War Zone

Nothing to do with the rumble and not a war zone but that is what it has sounded like since 5:00 AM. We have had fireworks, rockets and church bells from every church in the city in honor of the Virgen de Guadalupe. Actually, we had a one round of noise at midnight and then relative quiet until early this morning. I'm not complaining. It is one of the things that reminds me that I'm in Mexico.

Today are lots of events and processions honoring the Virgen (yes I know that isn't the way you spell virgin in the USA but this is THE Mexican Virgen.) I'll report what I see and hopefully have some pictures to accompany the post.

Sunday, December 11, 2005

All's Quiet

I suspected that we might have a return visit of the green pickup truck and more activity in the street but all was quiet during the night......except, of course, for the roosters, dogs and bells.

The sun is shining and it is going to be a beautiful day.

Saturday, December 10, 2005

Rumble in the 'hood

It is the hora de cristal (This is the term for what one of our Mexican friends called the cocktail hour) so we are on the terraza with glasses of wine looking out over the city. Suddenly below us is shouting and yelling and squealing of tires and banging of metal on metal. We look down and there is a pickup truck going down our street with one guy in the back throwing bottles and anything else he can find back towards the street in front of our house and our nextdoor neighbor and his 19 year old son are chasing the truck throwing big rocks at the truck. The daughter is screaming at them to stop. After the Dad makes a good hit on the back window of the truck, just missing the head of guy in the bed of the truck, the truck takes off as fast as you can take off on a rough cobblestone street.

The Dad has a cell phone from somewhere and we hear him calling the police and he is describing the truck and giving them the license number. By this time neighbors all up and down the street are standing outside and the boys on the street are gathering outside our house. Within minutes we are an occupied territory. Police trucks, mounted policemen, motorcycle police, police with rifles are in the street. Emotions are high. The neighbor and his son are ready to defend their territory. We are partially blocked by trees and can't see all that is happening but the police are trying to calm them down. The green pickup truck has circled the block and is down in the intersection where all the police cars are. There are more police on the ground there.

Gradually things seem to calm down and one by one the police leave but the boys on the street are still gathered outside. We can see that some of them have picked up something to defend themselves in case they have the opportunity to participate in anything else that might happened. Male testosterone!

Now the neighbor is standing on the sidewalk so Ned goes down to talk to him because we have no idea what started all this excitement. He said that the boys in the pickup were drunk and they first sideswiped the barber's red Explorer and knocked the mirror off. Then they threw a beer bottle and hit his son who was working on his truck in front of the house. He said the police didn't arrest anyone because the police are friends of the grandfather of the boys in the pickup truck. Ahh, Mexico.

Everything seems back to normal now but I'm not sure it is over. As Calypso says, "Stay tuned."

Friday, December 09, 2005

There is a Spirit in the Air

You can feel it....anticipation of special days. The Festival honoring the Virgen de Guadalupe, Posadas, Navidad and followed by Dia de Reyes. Neighbors have been putting up lights and setting up their nacimientos.
Friday morning we walked to the big Mexican market on the other side of the Centro. The streets are more crowded with cars as Paisanos return to be with family and the sidewalks are filled with people carrying loaded sacos. Stalls are set up selling poinsettias and handicrafts. In the artisan's market next to Ignacio Rameriz Mercado, there are stalls loaded with Christmas decorations, manger scene figurines, artificial Christmas trees, lights, streamers.
Although San Miguel de Allende has many gringos who live here, I'm talking about what is happening in the Mexican neighborhoods and markets. Yesterday when I was in the market, I saw very few gringo faces. The sidewalks and aisles were jammed with Mexicans preparing for holidays that have much meaning for them.
I haven't given much thought to decorating for Christmas until I went into the Mexican market. I bought the figures you see above to make a nacimiento or nativity scene. There are lots of choices so I'll add to it next year. Then I bought shiny paper ornaments to hang from the light fixtures. I will not buy a real Christmas tree although they are selling trees from Canada here.
The Mexican traditional decoration for Christmas is the Nacimiento. I use to see some that were very elaborate in public places as well as get a glimpse of them in private homes. I'm hoping that this tradition will not be replaced with Christmas trees and Santa Claus but that is what I'm seeing in the Mexican markets. Globalization is affecting the Mexican culture....but that is for another blog one of these days. Right now, I'm going to enjoy preparations for Navidad.

Feast of the Immaculate Conception


Las Monjas Church is the church that celebrates the Feast of the Immaculate Conception. That seems like a fitting celebration for the church of the Nuns. The feast day was yesterday so we had tried to determine what would be happening and when at the church. We were never quite sure how it would all play out but we knew from last year that there would be fireworks. We thought they would happen about 9:00 PM. So around 8:00 PM we walked up to the Iglesia de Monjas.

The castillo for the fireworks had been erected in the street but traffic had not been stopped. They just went around it. Ned asked the men who seem to be in charge of the castillo when the castillo would be lit and they said, "Oh, 10:00 or 10:30." We walked into the courtyard of the church which was crowded. There were food booths, a band, games, punches with Rum or Tequila, children performances and people just visiting. We talked with Heidi and Vicente who have the chicken store in our neighborhood and with Jose Luis who has done upholstery for us and his shop is also in our neighborhood. Heidi told us the fireworks would be at 9:30.

We decided to go over to Tio Lucas and have a drink instead of a "punch" while we waited. Tio Lucas is about a block from the church and is a nice restaurant that is popular with both Mexicans and foreigners. When we walked in the door we saw someone waving at us. It was David, Joseph and Gary who were having dinner. We talked for a minute and then went into the bar and ordered our drinks.

A little after 9:30 we went back to the Iglesia de Monjas. No signs of the castillo of fireworks being lit. About 10:00 PM a Transito Police truck pulled up near the castillo but nothing was happening. The traffic was still going around the castillo and down the street. We sat on the curb and listened to the band as we waited. This was a fairly large band but I would say that most of the 9th grade bands in the USA would be able to compete very well with this band. I haven't decided if the sound of the Mexican bands is because of lack of practice together or the age and condition of the instruments. It is probably a little bit of both. But the music is played with much enthusiasm.

It was after 10:30 before the castillo was lit and the Transito Police didn't stop traffic on the street until the first sparkles from the fireworks started. I've written about Mexican fireworks before. As many times as I have seen them, they still amaze me. There is always a grand finale with rockets. Then time for everyone to head for home.

Thursday, December 08, 2005

It Has Been Done Before

I feel kind of guilty. I had friends in for dinner last night and I didn't try even one new recipe.

Shrimp Remoulade
Chicken Piquante
Almond Rice
Green Salad with basamic vinegar dressing
Tiny bananas sauteed in butter, brown sugar and brandy over homemade vanilla ice cream

I nearly always try at least one thing new but this menu, while it takes prep time, is all but finished when the guests arrive and it makes for an easy evening. All I have to do is put stuff in the oven.

When Meg, Joseph, Gary and David arrived we went to the terrace for a while to have a drink and appetizers and to look at the lights of the town. We came back down for dinner. David hasn't been here for a while so it was good to have time for conversations with him.

After everyone left, Ned and I washed most of the dishes but the glasses. Gotta finish that up this morning before we leave for Dolores Hidalgo with Barry and Tracy. We need a few more tile for the terrace table and we want to check out the furniture place. Of course, no trip to Dolores is complete without a stop at Vicente's for comida.

Tuesday, December 06, 2005

Creativity: Analog or Digital

I wrote a blog the other day about Digital Reactions---some photographers are embracing digital and others want to stay in film. Today I listened to an audio blog from Brooks Jensen the editor of LensWork Magazine titled Passion in the Old and New Media. Take a listen....you'll see how far apart the film and digital photographers are.

For those of you who don't know about LensWork Magazine, take a look around the website. It is my favorite photography magazine. A bit spendy but I think it is worth it.

Weather Report

We have been having glorious weather. Cool nights and warm days. But last night was warmer and today is overcast and foggy with maybe a bit of humidity in our normally dry air. We could use some rain.

Of course, I'm not complaining. We heard on the news this morning that Chicago is 2 degrees and Cleveland is -3 degrees.

It is a tough life in San Miguel de Allende, but someone has to do it.

Monday, December 05, 2005

First Party in December

Not really a Christmas Party but the house was decorated. I'm talking about the house of Joseph and Gary. The party was because David and Patrick are in town but with all the decorations and the candles there was an added holiday festivity to the occasion.

The story of how I picked these guys up......or maybe I should say how I met them....is always fun to tell. A little over 2 years ago, Meg and I had met up in the Jardin and we were wandering around to some of our favorite stores to see what was new. At Mariposa, there were some guys shopping and I struck up a conversation with one who introduced himself as David. He was particularly interested in a ceramic dog made into a lamp. I told him he should buy it now because if he didn't, I probably would. After a bit of banter he decided I was serious and told the shop owner to pack it up. He and Joseph were renting a house for several months and taking turns being in "residence." We exchanged phone numbers. I called and invited him to a party, then he invited us and the rest as they say is history.

Since then Joseph and his partner, Gary, have taken a long term lease on a house and David comes from time to time. For this visit Joseph planned a party and had it catered by John Morrow who has recently opened a food Kiosk in the Mercado de Artisanos. The food was fabulous. Quesadillas filled with amazingly flavorful greenbeans which could be topped off with a chipolte cream sauce. Tamales of pork and mole, bananas and chocolate, and mango and raisin. Lots of finger foods and a Mexican cheese pie....kind of a mix between New York Cheese Cake and Quiche.

I wish I had taken my camera. I'd love to show you the garden twinkling with candles, the house filled with Folk Art and the chandeliers ablaze with silver stars, ribbons and straw ornaments. But maybe I'll save that for another day when I tell you how Joseph with a little paint and upholstery transformed this house lost in 1950 to a showcase for all his treasures and folk art.

Sunday, December 04, 2005

Send Money

Send Money..........That is what they do. The Mexicans who manage to get across the border and find work send money home to their families in Mexico. So far this year it is estimated that they have sent back a total of 20 billion dollars. The State that I live in, Guanajuato, "exports" more manual laborers than any other State in Mexico....some 800,000 are in the USA.

Taylor, Texas with a population of about 13,500 residents has more than 4,500 Mexicans and the majority of them are from a little town outside of San Miguel, Los Rodriguez. They come home over the holidays if they can and they bring their savings to invest in building a home for the family or in the family business.

Although I can't find the reference now, I read somewhere that the money sent home by the emigrants is as much or more than the earnings of Pemex. These dollars are a vital part of the Mexican economy. Migration is a very complex issue on both sides of the border.

Saturday, December 03, 2005

I'm Skyping

Can't believe I've done this but I'm signed on to Skype. My friend Frank kept after me to sign up so he wouldn't have to pay for a long distance call to my USA Vonage number. Besides he and Allen were talking everyday on Skype while they worked on images or in the darkroom.

This afternoon for my inaugural call, Frank called me and then conferenced Allen into the call. So here I was talking with two good friends. Frank is in the Northeast, Allen in the Southwest and here I am in Mexico.

How cool is that!

Friday, December 02, 2005

Digital reactions

About two weeks ago I wrote an entry about getting a new video card installed on my computer to improve image quality. What should have been a simple installation caused some other problems and took longer than expected. Today that entry had a comment...........

horsedooty said...
did you ever have that trouble with your enlarger? No?...I didn't think so.
Yo soy horsedooty

I don't know who "horsedooty" is but I'm betting this is a photographer who isn't happy about what is happening in photography......it is going digital. I never thought it would happen so fast. But the technology has improved, quality has improved and the cost of high quality cameras has dropped per megapixel.

So why are some photographers so unhappy about the changes in photography?

First of all for those who want to continue to use film and print to silver gelatin papers because they feel it fits their vision, it is becoming harder and harder to get their materials. Kodak, Agfa, Ilford.....all have cut back, closed manufacturing facilities and reduced product lines. This is has to be very disheartening.

The cost of going digital is pretty high. It isn't just the cost of the camera. No, no, no. That is the start. You may need additional lenses for the camera because of the frame factor of if you have a full frame sensor you may need the finest glass to take advantage of the sensor. You have to have a pretty up-to-date computer, back up storage, a large good monitor, Photoshop and know how to use it, and then you need a printer that can print the size you want to print. And when you get all this together, then you need to start saving for the next round of technology. The cost of digital is endless. Very different from film where once you had a camera and your darkroom, your costs were in your chemicals and paper. The camera and enlarger lasted and lasted.

Another factor maybe fear of the new technology. It is huge learning curve. How long will it take to be competent?

And then those who have switched keep talking about how they can do this and do that and do it so much easier than they could in the darkroom.

So when one of those "digital photographers" has a digital problem, the "film photographers" just have to take the opportunity to say, "See you wouldn't have those problems if you had stayed in the DARKroom."

Thursday, December 01, 2005

Back For Two Days.......

Back for two days.....
must be time for a dinner party. We haven't seen Barry and Tracy since June. They're back. We need to catch up and what better way to do it than over the dinner table.

Add to that, I have a new cooking magazine so thought I'd try a couple of new recipes. One is a Nutty Chocolate Shortbread and the other was Green beans in brown butter sauce with pine nuts. But....today at the market the green beans didn't look that tender and I had taken the pinenuts back to Houston. So the green bean recipe almost changed to broccoli in a brown butter sauce with toasted almonds but at the last minute I decided on broccoli sauteed with garlic....an old standard.

I wanted to keep the menu simple and not a lot of work so I sent Ned down to the end of our street for a Grande cocktail de camarones from Mariscolandia. It is in a great sauce but the sauce is pretty soupy so I added finely chopped tomato, yellow bell pepper, a jalapeno, onion, cilantro, and avocado. We served it with chips. Nice appetizer.

I roasted a filete de res, the broccoli and made a polenta with Parmesan cheese.

From my new Fine Cooking magazine I made the Nutty chocolate shortbread. Pretty easy recipe but I decided to add something or as Emeril would say, BAM! Initially I thought I would add the topping from my recipe for the Chocolate Truffle Tart which is made with mascarpone cheese and whipping cream. But the mascarpone cheese was 49 pesos for a 8-ounce container. Too, too much. I used some softened cream cheese and mixed it with crema, a bit of sugar and vanilla and whipped it until it formed peaks. That was perfect. Sweet but it still had the tang of the cream cheese, very smooth. Just a spoon full was a nice compliment to the dense dark chocolate shortbread. The Nutty Chocolate Shortbread recipe is a keeper.

Tracy is a painter and we got into a lively discussion about Mexican artist from the 1920 to 1940 period and how they used color fields and filled the canvas. Discussions about marketing yourself as an artist...what it takes and how some artists seem to be able to circumvent normal channels and make a splash. We talked about maintaining relationships over the years. We talked about friends and what has happened since we last saw each other.

This was a good evening.